Method of making shoes



Aug. 21, 1945.

s. GALLO METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed Feb. l. 1943 I INVENTOR 521505250710 6'0//0 ATTORNEYv Reissued Aug. 21, 19745 Original No. 2,353,396, dated July 11,1944, Serial I No. 474,392, February 1, 1943. Application `for reissue February 27 1945, Serial No. 580,067

y'8 Claims.

This invention relates to the construction of open-toe articles of footwear and more specifically -to the attachng'of uppers to the soles of open-toe articles of footwear.

The object of the invention is to provide an improved method for making open-toe footwear without using a last for assembling the upper with the sole member to which said upper is attached. The invention includes the use of a plate which is shaped to the desired contour of the portion of the insole or sole member to' which the upper is to be connected. The upper is preferably marked to indicate the line along which it must be bent when connecting it with the sole member. The sole ispreferably split along its marginal edge for receiving the edge portion of the upper, but the invention lcan also be used with constructions having an outer sole and a separate insole made yby the Del Mac or straight Compo process.

Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will appear orbe pointed out as the description proceeds.

In the drawing where like reference characters designate corresponding parts in all the views,

Figure 1 is a perspective view illustrating a sole construction to which an upper is to be attached in accordance with this invention.

Figure 2 is a side view, mostly in section, taken along the line 2--2 of Figure '1,I showing the sole illustrated in Figure 1, but with a plate for holdling the sole to the desired shape, and with the rearward portion of the sole connected with a heel.

Figures 3, 4 and 5 are perspective views, on a reduced scale, showing open-toe shoes made in accordance with this invention.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary perspective view,

mostly in section, showing the manner in which an upper is connected with a sole member, the section through the sole member being taken on the line 6-6 of Figure 1, the binding around the edge of the sole member being omitted for greater `clearness in the drawing.

Figure 'l is a bottom plan view of the shoe structure shown in Figure 2. y

Figures 8 and 9 are sectional views taken on the lines 8-8 and 9--9 of Figure 7 and showing a portion` of an upper attached to the sole.

The sole includes -a forward or tread portion LII ' preferably made of and outer layers connected together, but it .is one piece split inwardly from its marginal edges. The split is indicated by the reference character I I, and in Figure 1-the sole is shown upside down with the outer flap bent away from the inner portion of the sole. In all of the other views, except Figure '1, the construction is ,oriented so that the bottom face of the sole is downward. The dotted vline indicated by thereference character II in Figure 'i showsV the depth of the split inward from the marginal ,edge

of the forward portion Ib of the sole.

Referring again to Figure 1, the top portion of the sole, thatisfthe portion above the split II, is

trimmed backto form an edge I2. Inner portions ol' this edge I2 which are exposed through the' open toe of the upper of the finished shoe,

` or through other open work of the shoe upper,

and the corresponding edge4 of the' rearward or shank portion I4, which is visible in the nished shoe, are covered by edge bindingll held in place by cement.

The rearward n portion t`o which strength is imsuriace of the shank portion lIl as lshown in'Figure 1. The shank stiener I8l is held in place by the cement and may also be held atjits ends Il) which is made of wear-resistant material, preferably leather, and a shank portion I4 which is located rearwardly of rsaid tread portion. This soley is substantially non4stretchable. This sole at its forward portion may be made with inner by rivets I8. y

'The rearward portionof the outsoleis divided toward its rearward or heel end into a nap and heel breast 25. The flap 2| is preferably thicker than the heel breast 25. y l

Figure 6 shows the manner in which anupper, such asa vamp 28, is connectedwith the sole. The split II is opened by bending down the` outer or bottom ilap 29and'v the lower marginal edge 3l of the vamp 28 is inserted into the, split.- I [for the proper distance. The extent to Vwhichthe marginal edge ol the vamp` 2B is yto be ,inserted into the split ll is preferably determined by I markings 32 and 33 on the surfaceof the vamp ,28. These markings 32 and 33 indicate the respective lines along which the vamp Ymust be bent inwardly. Each line 32 is on they outside surface of the vamp. Each line 33 is on thefinv side surface. For some styles of upper, it isl easier to use an outside marking 32, forother styles,` the inside marking 33 is preferred. The outside and vinside markings 32. and 33 are not bothessential on the same upper, but it is preferable to have both markings. The inner marking 33 is generally the more convenient to use, in determining how far into the split II the edge of the-shoe upper 28 should be inserted. The outer surface shank portion Il of the sole comlast, but it is a feature of tn e upper or vamp 28. which is to be cemented to the flap 29, is roughened before the vamp is attached to the shoe. The outer marking 32 is useful in determining how far back from the edge the vamp should be roughened.

.Figures 3, 4 and 5 show different styles of open-toe shoes that can be made in accordance with this invention. Figure 3 shows an open toe pump. In this style of shoe the edge I2 of the inner flap is not visible anywhere except at the toe of the shoe. Figure 4 shows a shoe having an open toe, open shank, and an open back with straps 35. Figure 5 shows an open-toe and open-back shoe.

The sole preferably has marks 34 for indicating the proper location for the forward ends of the upper. In a shoe of the style shown in Figure 4 there is asimilar mark 36, see Figures l and 2, indicating the proper location of the rearward edge of the vamp 28. These marks 34 and 36 make it possible to put the vamp in place more quickly when connecting it with the sole, and such marks are particularly helpful in cases where the shoes are made by less experienced persons. 'I'he shoe shown in Figure 4 also has marks on, the sole for indicating the correct location for connecting the straps 35 with the sole. Similarly the shoe 'shown in Figure 5 preferably has marks on the sole at the correct location for the rearward edge of the upper.

The marginal edge 3i (Figure 6) of the upper 2l is preferably roughened on both the inside and outside vand covered with latex cement before being inserted into the split I I. After the marginal edge 3 i has been inserted for the proper distance between the iiaps of the half-sole i0, the outer ap 28 is bent back parallel with the remainder of the sole I as shown on the left handV side of Figure 6. It is necessary to shape and hold the flexible sole to the desired contour of the finished shoe d-uring the time that the upper 28 is being connected with the sole I 0, and even more important while connecting the upper with the shank-portion M of the sole, when the shank portion is arched, as shown in Figure 2.

'I'he sole can be thus shaped by means of a of my inventionthat the upper is assembled with the sole. withoutusing a last. This is made possible by placing a metal plate 38 in abutment with the top of the sole or insole. that is, the inner faceA of the sole or insole. to shape the sole or insole to final desired shape, while the upper is connected in final relation to the sole or insole, the face of the solemember to which the plate Il is applied, is the inner face of said sole-member in the finished article of footwear and the usual sock lining is merely a covering for said inner face. The plate I has the same shape as the bottom of the lastthat 'would b e -used for a shoe of the same size. The upper is loose relative to said. plate, during the operation of at the upper to the sole or insole.

The plate 38 is shown in Figures 2, 6 and 8. 'I'his plate is preferably heldin place by small tacks ll, which are located at three points along the 4center of the plate and at locations where they can be easily removed after the upper has been connected with the sole. The tack I! nearest the toe is removed through the open toe of the nished shoe. The plate made of iron, though other material of suicient rigidity is suitable.

The use of the plate I8, instead of a last, makes it possible to assemble the open-toe upper with ease? the sole, in the `final relation of the upper and the sole in the finished article of footwear, at

lower cost, and with less highly skilled labor. because it is unnecessary to stretch the, upper, and the upper and the sole can be directly adhesively connected, thus eliminating the use of tacks. 'I'he be used in the subsequent operation or operations in completing the shoe. However, the assembled sole and upper fit accurately on said last. so that it is unnecessary to stretch'the upper when the assembled sole and last. v

After -the plate 38 has been detached and removed a heel 4i is connected'with the rearward poi tion il of the sole by a screw 42 that passes through the upper end of the shank stiiener Il. The upper surface ofthe heel 4i is concave, in the usual manner, and the rearward end portion of the shank sole 24 overlies this recessed surface. as shown in Figure 2. The heel breast 25 is cemented to the surface of the heel and trimmed.

When thus assembling an upper with a sole member without .a last, this invention vis limited to open-toe articles of footwear because a closed toe upperV cannot be thus assembled with the sole member. The invention can be used for making open-toe slippers which have heel straps or which have open heels as shown in Figures 4 and 5. When making closed heel footwear, as shown in Figure 3, after assembling the upper and theA sole member by the method and process of this invention, the c losed heel portion is lasted in the conventional manner. y

The preferred embodiment of the invention has been illustrated, but changes and modifications can be made and some features used without others without departing from the invention as defined in the claims.

1. In the manufacture of an open-toe article of footwear which has an open-toe sole-member which is made of pliant material, said sole-member having an arched shank-por tion in the finished article of footwear, that method of assembling said open-toe -upper and said sole-member without the use of a last, which comprises detachably fastening to the inner face of said sole-member a 'stiff plate on which the sole-member is shaped to the desiredi'shape of said sole-member in the finished article of footwear, said inner face being the inner face of said upper are located on the sole-member in the finished article of foot- 18 is preferably wear,.coating the marginal edge of said solemember and said upper with cement. allowing time for the cement to become tacky, then Joining said upper and said sole-member, on one of which markings are provided for indicating how much of said upper should overlap said sole-member, said Joining being accomplished by applying said upper to said scie-member and bending said upper inwardly in accordance with said markings to bring the cement-coated surface of said upper into contact with the cementcoated surface of said sole-member, and after said .upper is secured in place, removing the vflis- 'tenings by which said stil! plate is fixed to said sole-member and' withdrawing said plate from said upper and said sole-member, said sole-member and said upper being thus fixed to each other upper and s.

in the final relative position which they have in the finished article of footwear.

2. In the manufacture of an open-toe article of footwear which has an open-toe upper and a sole-member which is made of pliant material, said soleeniember having an arched shank-portion in the finished article of footwear, said solemember being split inwardly from its marginal edge around a portion of its periphery, to form upper and lower flaps along that portion of said periphery which is to be joined to said upper, the method which comprises detachably fixing to the inner face of said sole-member a stiff plate on which the sole-member is shaped to the desired yshape of said sole-member in the finished article of footwear, said inner face being the inner face of the said sole-member inthe finished article of footwear, said plate being thus xed to said sole-member at a center point near the toe portion of said sole-memberand at another point nearer the midportion of said sole-member, coating the confronting faces of said upper and lower flaps with cement, coating the marginal edges of the upper with cement, and with said lowexflap turned down and after the cement has become tacky, inserting said marginal edges of thev upper between said flaps, pressing the'lower ilap upwardly against said coated marginal edge to fix said coatedy marginal edge between said flaps. and thereafter detaching said stiff plates from said sole-member, said sole-member and s aid upper being thus fixed to each other in the nal relative position which they have in the finished article of footwear.

3. In the `manufacture of an open-toearticle of footwear which has an open-toe upper and a sole-member which is made of pliant material,

saidsole-member having a tread portion and also having an arched shank-portion in the finished article of footwear, that method of assembling said open-toe upper and said sole-member without the use of a last, which comprises detachably fastening to the inner face of said sole-member a stiff plate on which the 'sole-member is shaped to the desired shape of said sole-member in the finished article of footwear, said inner face being the inner face of the sole-member of the finished article of footwear, adhesively fixing the inwardly bent marginal portion of the upper t0 said sole-member in the final relative assembled position which said upper and said soiemember have in the finished article of footwear f and then separating said plate from said assembled upper and sole-member.

4. A method according to claim 3 in which said upper is thus assembled with and xed to said tread portion and also to atleast a part of said shank portion. I

5. A method according to claim 3 in which said upper is a one-piece upper which is thus assembled with and fixed to said tread portion and also to at least a port of said vshank portion.

0. The method of lasting open-toe footwearvbeing vpressing the lower flap upward against without a lastQwhlch method comprises detachably fastening to the upper surface of a. sole a stiff plate that overlies for a. considerable extent the shank portion 'of the sole and holds said shank portion to the desired arched shape of the completed shoe, adhesively fixing an upper to the marginal edges of the sole, including the marginal edges vof the solealong at least a part of the arched shank portion of the sole, by applying the upper to the sole and bending the upper inward to bring a surface of the upper into contact with a. surface of the sole with cement fbetween the confronting surfaces of the sole and upper, and after the upper is secured in place removing the fastenings by which the stiff plate is secured to the sole, and withdrawing the plate from within the shoe.

7. The method of securing an upper of opentoe footwear to a sole without a, last, which meth od comprises detach-ably fastening to the upper surface of the sole a stiff plate that overlies for a considerable extent the shank portion of the sole and holds said shank portion to the desired arched shape of the completed shoe, coating the marginal edges of the sole and an upper with cement including the marginal edges of the sole along at least a part of the arched shank portion of the sole, and with thecement in a tacky condition joining the upper and sole, on one of which markings are provided for indicating how much of the upper shouldvoverlap the' sole, said joining being accomplished by applying the upper to the sole and-bending the upper inward in accordance with said markings to bring the ceniented surface of the upper into contact with the cemented surface of the sole, and after the upper is secured in place removing the fastenings by which the stiff plate is secured tothe sole, and withdrawing the plate from within the shoe.

.8. The method of lasting open-toe footwear without a last which method` comprises providing a sole which is split inward from its marginal edge around a portion of its circumference to form. upper and lower flaps along the part of the edge that is to be joined with an upper including at least a part ofthe shank portion of the sole, detachabiy securing to the upper surface of the sole a rigid plate that overlies for a considerable extent the shank portion of the sole and holds said shank portion to the desired arched shape of the nished shoe, the rigid plate secured to the sole by fastening the plate to the sole at a central 'point near the toe of the shoe and at another point nearer the mid-portion of the sole, coating the confronting faces of the upper and lower naps of the sole with cement, and with the lower nap turned down and thecement in a tacky conditiony inserting the marginal edges of the upper between the flaps, the edges of the upper, and thereafter detaching the rigid plate from the sole. A

SEBASTIANO GALLO. 

